SOLO WINTER BACKPACKER TOUR" of Amritsar, Srinagar,Gulmarg,Manali,,Shimla and Chandigarh.This is the continuation of the tour into the State of Kashmir from Amritsar.I call this part of my tour as the "Kashmir Bandh Tour Experience", as entire Srinagar was shut down due to political reasons, tourism of a different kind.

ARRIVAL JAMMU(Monday 4-3-2013) AND ROAD JOURNEY TO SRINAGAR :- .Our bus finally departed from Amritsar at approx 2230 hrs , the third continuous night of sleeping on a vehicle,definition of a hard-core solo backpacking tour.Reached Jammu bus terminus early in the morning at approx 0315 hrs and on getting down from the bus was mobbed by a horde of young taxi drivers.A young taxi driver asked me my destination and quickly made a deal of Rs 800 on shared basis to Srinagar.I boarded his "S.U.V taxi" , a huge number of other "S.U.V'S" parked in a row for different destinations in Kashmir. It was a long wait in the taxi as the driver tried to solicit other passengers from different buses arriving at Jammu bus terminus.Bored, i strayed out of the car and had a cup of"Kashmiri Salted tea" at the tea-stall near the taxi-stand.Before tasting this cup of tea never knew that such a drink as "SALTED TEA" existed. This is the reasons that travel and traveling broadens a persons cultural and social horizons, irrespective of caste, creed, sex or colour.The taxi driver finally managed to gather passengers and we finally totaled six passengers, five men and a young lady.We departed Jammu bus-stand at approx 0520 hrs, a comfortable journey as the car was spacious and the ambient temps cold.At approx 0730 hrs we stopped at a local dhaba for toilet and breakfast and i felt of being in a Arab country as the culture was totally Islamic ,most men with long beards and no mustaches besides wearing the typical long Kashmiri winter overcoats. Having visited numerous Arab and Islamic African country's during my sea-faring employment felt that this Dhabba in Kashmir could be used as an Algerian or Moroccan cafe for a "Film Shooting" akin to Chandigarh being used to replicate Abbotabad in the English film "Zero dark thirty" based on Ossama Bin Laden assassination.Relieved my bowels and after a cup of tea at approx 0745 hrs we finally drove away on National highway 1 towards Srinagar, the route scenic and dangerous.Akin to Nepal, the road to Srinagar was over winding roads inclining into mountains and gradually declining akin to a sine curve, absolutely topsy-curvy with sharp bends and turns.A gushing stream always flowed below the hill or mountain road and a slight driving error could mean a plunge into the deep mountain gorges.Sighted the first snow mountains in India while approaching the mountain resort of Patnitop in Udhampur district of Kashmir.As we climbed up the mountain towards the plateau of Patnitop came across melting snow on sides of the road, tall conifer trees lining the mountains.We finally reached Patnitop situated at an altitude of 2,024 m (6,640 ft).This was the first instance when i saw snow in a Indian city and was amazed at the beauty and scenic location of Patnitop. The river Chenab flowed below the plateau and hence in summer this hill-station is a prime location for tourists from the hot and warm regions of India.There was bright sunshine which reflected its rays on the patches of melting snow in Patnitop.Saw a road sign post stating that Srinagar was 184 kms away, the distance seeming near on a flat road but very long and time consuming in a mountainous road circuit.At approx 1030 hrs we had a traffic jam due to a stone-landslide on the highway , common in these mountainous regions during the month of March. The melting snow gradually loosens the earth resulting in huge boulders getting dislocated and falling onto the roads from mountains or hill-tops. After a brief stop the road was cleared and the traffic began its normal journey towards Srinagar, a lonely narrow road. We finally entered the 2.5 Kms long "Jawahar Tunnel(Banihal Tunnel)" and had to stop mid-way inside the tunnel due to a traffic jam.We finally exited the tunnel at approx 1200hrs, this tunnel being the life-line between Srinagar and Jammu. There was thick ice formation on both sides of the roads and this must have been the reason for the traffic jam. Just after exiting the Jawahar tunnel at approx 1205 hrs we reached a spot known as "Titanic Viewpoint" which offered a breathtaking look of Kashmir valley from the road.As a former sea-farer the name "Titanic" struck me as out of place in the land-locked state of Kashmir or could be that the actual word titanic was being referred and not a reference to the infamous ship.This was the last mountain pass into Srinagar, hence known as the Valley. A memorial plaque was erected at this tourist viewpoint in honour of Major Bhupender Singh of the Border road Organization who lost his life to terrorism in the valley.There were patches of melting snow at the"Titanic View point" as seen in the photo, the first time i touched snow in India.After a brief stop to admire Kashmir Valley our vehicle departed from "Titanic Viewpoint" , gradually descending the mountain into Anantnag district onto the road to Srinagar. Our driver Mr Mehran.Amin had to divert onto a different route as there was a "7-day Kashmir bandh" in the valley, a result of terrorist mastermind "Afzal Guru" hanging and a recent incident of a Kashmiri student found hanging in Hyderabad.This route was approx 5 to 10 Kms longer and the roads totally deserted with a few cars on the road.Kashmir had always eluded my tour itinerary since decades because of terrorism and bizarrely i was touring the valley at the height of political social unrest, something i never anticipated.When i had planned my tour and booked train tickets in January the political situation in Kashmir was relatively calm and peaceful , hence decided to tour the State.The hanging on 9-2-2013 of mastermind Mr Afzal.Guru for the 2001 Indian Parliament attack changed the entire political situation in Kashmir and also my tour itinerary.When i had left Mumbai on Friday(1-3-2013) the political situation in Kashmir was calm and hence decided to visit Srinagar from Amritsar.Destiny had other plans and bizarrely on the day i reached Jammu the "7 day Kashmir Bandh" had been announced of which i was unaware, otherwise would have diverted my tour itinerary.Now i realize the reasons for the long wait at Jammu to get passengers to fill the taxi to capacity, a tourist vacuum had resulted due to the abrupt "Kashmir Bandh". The taxi was finally occupied by a few local Kashmiri youth, amongst them a teacher and a young medical lady student.As they say, "Fortune favours the brave or the ignorant!" and hence i decided to proceed with my entire Kashmir tour irrespective of the consequences. At approx 1300 hrs we passed through the town of Anantnag, familiar to me through the newspapers in the hey days of terrorism in the Kashmir valley.Got a first glimpse of "KASHMIR BANDH" with the entire town shut, not a single shop open and few people on the roads.Got a first glimpse of the average Kashmiri men in their traditional long winter overcoats, hand sleeves dangling loose, akin to a blanket over the shoulders.This was the first time in my life that i came across a group of local Kashmiri's in their traditional winter attire and realized the diversities of culture and traditions in various states and regions of India. At approx 1400 hrs we approached the suburbs of Srinagar, our car passing through a road lined with tall barren trees with the World famous saffron fields of Kashmir on either side. Finally at 1430 hrs arrived at the "Tourist Center of Srinagar", the main boarding and alighting point for taxis in the city.
SRINAGAR (Day One :- Monday 4-3-2013) :- As soon as i alighted the taxi a couple of men approached me for hotel accommodation.A young man spoke to me in English stating that he owned boathouses as well as land accommodation very close to the city center .Mr Tariq.Wagnoo was not dressed in typical Kashmiri attire but normal winter clothing and after agreeing to a price of Rs 400/day we both walked towards his guest-house.As we neared the guest house his father Mr Abdul.Rehman came to receive us and i finally made my way to "Diamond Guesthouse" with Mr Abdul.Rehman his son Mr Tariq.Wagnoo having some other personal appointments.During my entire walk had observed "C.R.P.F(Central Reserve Police Force)" personal in complete battle gear every 50 meters along the road with wire mesh barricades at some points for stopping and inspecting the few vehicles that plied the empty streets. "Diamond Guesthouse" was situated in a hotel cum residential locality,the guesthouse being a large private bungalow which was undergoing an extension of a upper first floor.I was allotted a large carpeted room with a self attached bath/toilet.Mr Abdul.Rehman and his entire family lived on the same floor in the two other rooms in the three room bungalow.It was akin to living within a family as i was the only tourist, the house filled with the sounds of children and womenfolk.I made my way to my self-contained room and first requested Mr Abdul.Rehman to switch on the geyser as it was three days since i last had a bathe ! Even after 15 minutes the geyser water was freezing cold and at the risk of hypothermia i had a chilled water bathe in Srinagar, my first bathe of the tour. At approx 1545 i left "Diamond Guesthouse" and asking directions made my way towards the World famous Dal lake.Never before in my life had i seen such heavy military fortifications with the "C.R.P.F 21st Battalion" having its headquarters in the"Metro Hotel" situated on the main road approx ten minutes walk from "Diamond Guesthouse".I had my first snack in Srinagar at a small street-side stall selling bhajias and vegetable samosa's near the Metro hotel, tasting a single samosa that was delicious. Photography of any army installation or armed forces was prohibited, my binoculars and typical western attire separating me as the lone tourist during my lonely walk towards Dal Gate locality. Local Kashmiri's in their winter Kashmir long-coats were gathered at street corners , some staring at me as a curiosity, the freak "Solo backpacker tourist" in a troubled city, akin to the Hippy's of the 1970's. On the way spotted a Sheekh kabaab man opening his roadside shop and ate the first meal in Srinagar, a Boti / 2 Roti's (Rs 80), the toughest meat i had ever eaten in my life, absolutely hardcore street food. !The road to Dal gate was a long straight road after the diversion on the main road near the "C.R.P.F 21st Battalion" headquarters. Hindi movies of Shammi .Kapoor was my image of this lake and was surprised to find the approach to the lake before the "Dal Lockgate" absolutely filthy, a playground for mosquito's which thanks to the extreme cold are absent in Srinagar.On reaching Dal lake promenade spotted a few group of Indian tourists but not a single solo tourist. Numerous Shikara oarsmen approached me for utilizing their boat for a ride on the Dal lake , most boats with fancy and exotic names idle due to lack of tourists.Srinagar survives on tourism, both in winter as well as summer, though winter is the slack season unless a winter sports enthusiast. I decided to experience the Shikara ride since boating was not a fascination to me having served a life-time of employment as a marine-engineer of ocean ships.The half hour ride on the shikara "Mehraj" cost me Rs 150 and was pleasant, besides, i got a brief introduction into the topography of this huge natural lake city with numerous navigable channels and islets.The boatman explained me various locations in local terminology, hence names like "Chotta Dal Lake","Lotus Pond", and "Golden Lake", the ride for half an hour being only up-to "Golden Lake" and back to jetty called "Ghat-1".Most of the Hindi film shootings that i grew up on were taken on the"Golden lake", a part of the lake which housed the costliest and poshest houseboats with a very clear stretch of calm clean water, akin to a swimming pool."Chotta Dal Lake" was akin to a Mumbai Slum in comparison to "Golden lake" which resembled an upscale wealthy locality in Mumbai. The entire shoreline of the Dal lake is approx 15.5 Kms and all the major tourist sites including the famous"Moghul Gardens" in Srinagar can be assessed through a entire days's shikara ride, the shikara stopping at various jetty's(Ghats) from where the tourist can alight and visit the gardens or monuments.My shikara ride was just half an hour ending at approx 1730 hrs.After the ride i made my way towards "Diamond Guesthouse" address:- Baber Shah Sethu, opposite Baba Dharamdas mandir, approx 20 minutes walk from Dal lake boulevard, a convenient location for tourists. Dusk was settling in, the roads deserted , myself the only tourist on the entire route to the guesthouse with soldiers every 50 meters. On the way purchased some oranges and bananas from a fruit-seller, my dinner for the night as no hotel or dhabba was open, barring the a few roadside eateries selling egg products and hard-core toughened boti/kabbabs, not suitable for my stomach.I was recovering from a severe stomach upset suffered due to irresponsible food habits during my marathon train journey to Amritsar and since i was on a long solo tour didn't want to gamble on my culinary toughness!."Diamond guesthouse" was situated in a bylane from the main road, a cluster of hotel buildings, bungalows and a Islamic English school situated in this locality.This locality was desolate due to the absence of tourists and hence i managed decent accommodation at very modest rates, akin to living in the household of a Kashmiri Muslim family rather than a guesthouse.On arrival at the guesthouse planned my trip for Gulmarg and asked Chacha Abdul.Rehman for guidance, Mr Abdul.Rehman requesting me to address him as "Chacha".After explaining me the route to Gulmarg Chacha Abdul.Rehman suggested that i have breakfast and dinner at the guest-house, food cooked for the entire family.He showed me his guestbook in which various visitors to his guest-house had expressed their gratitude towards his hospitality and culinary skills.Agreed for a daily breakfast of Omlette/Kashmiri bread(Rs 100) as i was not sure of my lunch and dinner agenda.I helped Chacha Abdul.Rehman in setting his hot water calorifier on the right pipelines in the process helping myself bathe in steaming hot water.As mentioned it was a very spacious huge room with attached bathe accommodation but chillingly cold, akin to living in a igloo in Greenland!I presumed that the reasons for excessive chill in the room was moisture absorption of the roof due to construction activities, Chacha Abdul.Rehman extending a floor to his bungalow guesthouse.Surfed the television channels and was surprised to find the total blackout of "Times Now News channel" and its anchor man Mr Arnav.Gosswami as also "N.D.T.V channel" and its anchorwoman Barkha.Dutt, two of India's most recognizable English language media and media anchors.Among English and Hindi entertainment channels, most channels available in Mumbai were also on the television in Srinagar, including raunchy and sexy English video music channels.Most unusual to me but normal in Srinagar was the transmission of Pakistan News channels like "The Dawn","Geo News" and "PTV Sports".After viewing the television programmes decided to get some long lost sleep, having spent three nights on vehicles, my first night in a normal house on a bed.Despite wearing "long Johns', a track pant, a sweater, a jacket and a double "Kashmiri style blanket" i was still feeling the bone chilling Srinagar cold.I had developed a chronic cough during the tour, a throat allergy that has persisted with me during cold weather for over a decade ,scaring me for a "Throat cancer checkup". After a night of endless coughing was woken up at 0530 hrs by the local Muezzin's" loud call over the loudspeaker for prayers.
SRINAGAR-DAY 2 (Tuesday 5-3-2013).TOUR TO GULMARG. After a steaming hot bathe dressed into my winter protection gear for visiting Gulmarg.Chacha Abrdul Rehman prepared breakfast early and after ages it was the best Omelet/Kashmiri bread breakfast, besides my house cooking.For the first time in my life tasted "Kashmiri Bread" which had a unique flavour, akin to the hard "Broon bread" in Mumbai.I have eaten Muslim prepared nans and breads in Mumbai's famous street food shops of Bhendi Bazaar, a majority Muslim locality of Mumbai, but never something like the soft "Kashmiri bread".Departed from the guesthouse at approx 0810 hrs heading into the main street and the Babar bridge road.I was the only person in the street besides a few local Kashmiri men and a few army personnel.Wlaked towards Dal gate and was lucky to get a rickshaw near a tea dhabba.The rickshaw charges to Badmulla taxi stand was Rs 80 and the roads empty of heavy vehicle traffic, barring a few rickshaws and "s.u.v Cars",common taxi mode of transport for tourists. Every shop was closed barring the odd tea dhabba and finally reached Badmulla taxi stand at approx 0820 hrs. The rickshaw driver helped me in boarding the taxi to Tangmarg, the village situated approx 11 kms from Gulmarg.The taxi charges on a shared basis was Rs 70/person and packed to seating capacity.On the journey a young Kashmiri youth warned me that visiting Gulmarg was dangerous as instances of stone throwing was a common phenomenon on a part of that route during "Kashmir Bandh's" or "Curfews".Having already risked my life traveling to Srinagar i decided to continue with my travel agenda irrespective of the physical consequences , the ultimate dangers of "Solo Backpacking" tours. On approaching Tangmarg came across snow on the roads with the approaching hills and fields covered with a blanket of snow.On arrival at the small village town of Tangmarg boarded another small shared jeep taxi that would ultimately take me to Gulmarg, the best skiing hill-station in India situated in the Baramulla district of Jammu and Kashmir.It was a steep narrow climb from Tangmarg town,a thick blanket of snow covering the entire forested area of Conifer trees.The thick layers of snow at the sides of the road and conifer trees reminded me of England , Canada and Switzerland,but, here i was experiencing the same climatic conditions in my native India, having traveled by train and buses to my destination!.On arriving at Gulmarg was greeted by the beautiful sight of pure white snow blanket with a few house roofs covered with ice. There were a lot of tourists in various forms of winter sports or just playing in the snow.I was approached by a young man who agreed to be my guide also requesting me to hire a snow-board taxi to reach the main Gondola lift station, a long distance from the taxi stand.On solo tours i am a miser with accommodation and food expenditure but spend like a billionaire as far as sightseeing and exotic modes of transport are concerned.Mr Ahmed.Khan who had the looks of a movie star was my guide while another young man pulled my snowboard, a common mode of transport with most tourists in Gulmarg. I was pulled by a rope seated on the snowboard across the frozen ice-path in a single row, other tourists being ahead or following me.Mr Ahmed.Khan explained me the various exotic locations which included the Shiva temple also called Rani temple in which a famous Rajesh.Khanna film was shot, the temple partly covered with snow. Further ahead we came across St Mary's church , the only Anglican church built in Gulmarg during British rule in India.He also pointed at a deep trough ahead of us which would be a lake in summer, now totally frozen ! In fact we were now traveling on the highest golf field in the World, the"Gulmarg Golf Course", totally covered by frozen ice and snow.I noticed many people skiing or learning to ski on the golf course and ultimately decided to take the plunge in learning a new sport, skiing.Mr Ahmed.Khan arranged a ski instructor and after a little bargaining Mr Ghulam.Hassan agreed to coach me for half an hour at fees of Rs 1000! I wore on the ski boots and after a few teething falls managed to ski at least 50 meters on my own, without help of ski instructor Mr Ghulam.Hassan.Sporting ability akin to music or writing is a inbuilt talent that can be nurtured with training and practice.If skiing lessons were for a month i might have graduated into a down-hill skier capable of skiing from the slopes of Mount Apharwat or could have also seriously injured myself,the dangers of any sports enthusiast.Thanking Ghulam.Hassan we finally made our way towards the Gondola, myself thrilled at having experienced the practical art of skiing, not as easy as seen in films .At certain points along the ice path the snow was melting rapidly, giving way to small puddles and tarmac road. I had to alight the snowboard on approaching these dry patches ,again seating once we were on a firm ice pathway.We finally reached the base of the first Gondola, tickets costing a total of Rs 800 purchased on the spot on arrival.Normally there is a queue for the Gondola ride ,tickets requiring advance booking by Internet ,but, sometimes Bandhs do favour the tourists who attempt traveling despite the dangers and handicaps."FORTUNE FAVOURS THE BRAVE OR THE IGNORANT "! Guide Javed.khan along with the snow-board puller agreed to wait at the Gondola base while i completed my Gondola rides and sightseeing of Kangdoor and Mout Apharwat ski slopes.There is a limited time limit for using the Gondola rides after purchasing the costly ticket which proves the rush during peak tourist traffic.Its not daily that a person can take a ride on the World's second highest cable car.Boarded the first stage Gondola at approx 1130 hrs the gondola being shared by a young 13 year old Kashmiri skier Master Omar.Farookh with his ski equipment , a prize winning skier.We reached Kangdoor in about 10 minutes, the scenery below breathtaking and awesome.Small houses were almost completely covered with snow and all the conifer trees had snow on them. Alighted the Gondola and surveyed Kongdoor ski slopes observing a ski school being conducted for professionals.A sign board was posted as a precaution against avalanches and abrupt changes in weather for tourists boarding the second stage Gondola cable car to Mount Apharwat.After a brief rest made my way to the entrance of the second Gondola cable car, absolutely empty, myself the lone tourist traveling to Koongdoori mountain skiing slopes, situated at an altitude of 3,747 m (12,293 ft), a shoulder of Mount Apharwat Peak(4,200 m 13,780 ft) ft)).At approx 1145 hrs reached the summit and could feel the breathlessness due to the altitude, very few tourists on the summit. The few tourists were much younger than me which included a young Sikh couple enjoying their romance in the snow,posing for photographs in various poses.I myself requested the few other tourists to click my photos and explored the vicinity of ankle deep snow.A Indian army check-post was at the extreme end of this small mountain plateau and a endless horizon of the snow capped mountains in the horizon.Focused my binoculars for any signs of human settlements or army posts in the distant mountains as the "L.O.C(Line of Control)" between India and Pakistan was only 20 Kms from this spot.Could detect no signs of army posts or human settlements , just snow capped mountains.Finally at approx 1235 hrs began my descent back to base in the same reverse manner in the 2-stege Gondola cable car.Reached Gulmarg base at approx 1300 hrs, my guide Mr Ahmed.Khan and the snowboard puller awaiting my arrival.I sat on the snowboard and was dragged across the ice to the taxi stand. The Sun was shining brightly and the the snow melting rapidly in most places along the snowboard ice-path.Within a few weeks the entire Gulmarg golf course on which i skied would be free of ice and in Summer this hill-station would present a different environment.Gulmarg is a tourist resort throughout the year, a skiers and winter-sports paradise in Winter and in Summer a scenic trekking hotspot along with golf and pony-riding .On reaching the taxi stand paid my snow-board puller and the guide, a total of Rs 1150, satisfied of my ambition of visiting Gulmarg and experiencing the sport of skiing.It was the same reverse travel system back to Srinagar. A shared taxi jeep from Gulmarg to Tangmarg where i satisfied my hunger with bread butter and tea in a restaurant that was open.A few shops were also open, Tangmarg being a main tourist junction hence the "Kashmir Bandh" not enforced in this town.Purchased oranges and bananas from a fruit-seller, the fruits in Kashmir having a different flavour, excellent taste due to the climatic conditions. Boarded the same taxi that brought me to Tangmarg in the morning, the driver recognizing me, the only odd solo tourist in a time of local disturbances.On reaching Badmallu bus stand caught a rickshaw that finally brought me safely to Barber Shah bridge, "Diamond Guesthouse" being just a few minutes walking distance from this junction. Thanks to the "Kashmir Bandh",the roads had no traffic congestion hence the travel to Gulmarg and back to the guesthouse was quick. My gambling instinct told me that it would be better to immediately visit Gulmarg on arrival in Srinagar and satisfy my curiosity of "India's Switzerland" before the "Kashmir Bandh" got worse and even tourist travel restricted. My gamble paid off and at least i had the pleasure of not only visiting and sightseeing entire Gulmarg but also the pleasure of experiencing the sport of skiing.I was back early at"Diamond Guesthouse" and spent the entire evening resting and watching television.Hungry, yet avoided eating the road-side samosa's & Kabaabs as i had a larger part of my tour itinerary still ahead in the coming days.I thanked Mr(Chacha) Abdul.Rehman .Wagnoo for his excellent guidance in helping me reach Gulmarg ,himself sad at the political situation that badly effected the tourist business, especially overseas tourists.Later in the evening Mr Tariq.Wagnoo came over to my room and we had a discussion on various topics with him requesting me to recommend his boat-house and hotel to my friends. He shuttled between staying on his boathouse accommodation and the land accommodation at "Diamond Guesthouse".They owned house-boats for generations, the entire family involved in hotel tourism of Kashmir.Tariq was a young man of 26 years of age qualified upto tenth standard as severe terrorism in the valley affected his education, himself lucky to have had a hereditary business to take up as a profession. On arrival at Jammu from Amritsar on Monday(4-3-2013) i was surprised at young handsome and stylish men plying the "S.U.V Taxi business", fit to be competitors to Shahrukh.Khan or Sanjay.Dutt in any Mumbai or city college! Rather than studying in colleges or seeking further education it seems most youth drop out of the education system.Terrorism that began in 1989 in the Kashmir valley has ruined a entire generation of young Kashmiri youth and this is my own personal observation and comment as an outsider tourist.Mr Tariq.Wagnoo gave me a "Hot water bag" for sleeping, an alternative to electric or fire wood heating system.It was another sleepless night of intermediate coughing and cold, finally getting some sleep in the dying moments of the early morning.Woke up much before the Muezzin's prayer call at 0530 hrs.
Srinagar-Day 3 (Wednesday 6-3-2013):-Today the "Kashmir Bandh" was more severe with curfew imposed in certain localities.My usual routine was watching television very early in the morning, the entire household asleep in the adjacent rooms in this huge bungalow.Breakfast of Omelet/Kashmiri bread was at approx 0900 hrs and as there was no place to visit decided to just jay walk along Dal lake promenade. Chacha Abdul.Rehman advised me on avoiding going towards the "Old City" or the "Lal Chowk" area, famous for separatist insurgency activities during the peak of terrorism in Kashmir valley during the 1990's, almost a daily footnote in the media in Mumbai.After breakfast i made my way into the main street, totally deserted, tourism experience of a different type.A Kashmiri man asked me where i was going, informing me of the curfew and its dangers. The Dal lake promenade was the only safe zone area during riots or disturbances as it was considered a total tourist locality, a source of income to the local economy.I walked by the now familiar route past Babar Sethu bridge and the straight road past "Metro Hotel" and the heavy army enforcement of the "C.R.P.F 21st Battalion", definitely scary to the faint-hearted and non-adrenaline junkies.At the end of this road was the main bifurcation roads, the north road leading to the "OLD CITY" heavily fortified while the South road led to the tourist area of Dal lake promenade.This was my regular route for the past three days and by now i must have been a familiar face to the Kashmiri locals as well as "C.R.P.F personnel and local armed police.Had a cup of tea at the local roadside stall, a common meeting place for locals.During my entire stay in Kashmir i never ever heard English being spoken amongst locals nor Urdu/Hindi, the only language being Kashmiri, totally foreign to me.Local Kashmiri's did speak in Hindi to me but amongst themselves it was only Kashmiri.During conversations at tea stalls and various places the fact did surface that the average Kashmiri considered India a foreign country referring to India as some distant country.World Intelligence has predicted that the "Kashmir Issue" will be a lasting problem between India and Pakistan for the next 100 years! Hope this prediction is proved wrong and Indian administered Kashmir returns to normal civil life like any other normal Indian city.Its no pleasure for an entire State being under total military supervision as also a entire army being under constant threat from militancy.Kashmir Civil war anti- insurgency movies like "Mission Kashmir"which was filmed on the Dal Lake seem entertaining to viewers watching in the safe confines of their living rooms.The ground reality of survival in a civil war torn city is totally different.This is my personal opinion as a practical thinking person rather than a arm-chair reporter or media baron.After tea made my way towards Dal lake boulevard, the place deserted and a horde of Shikara rowers approaching me for a Shikara ride, the rare tourist on this day.A hawker selling Kashmiri hats and caps on bicycle approached me and after much haggling purchased a sheep-skin head cover(Rs 450), the type worn by Eskimo's in extreme cold weather.Inquired about directions and realized that a complete walk along Dal lake promenade would lead me to all the Mughal gardens and places of Interest.Rickshaws and taxi's were quoting astronomical rates for driving me to Chasme-Mahal and Pari Mahal , normal if a group of at least 4 tourists.Single travel was the biggest tour expenses i faced as a solo-backpacker and since the weather was cold decided to try walking the distance to Pari Mahal.
At approx 10.00 hrs after a long walk admiring the house-boats and boat traffic to my left and the plush hotels and closed shops to my right of the beautiful promenade along Dal lake boulevard finally reached Nehru Park boat jetty. All along the route there were "GHATS(Boat jetty's)" at every few meters with Shikaras anchored at the boarding/alighting steps of these Ghats. The Ghats were numbered in serial order , number 1 beginning at the entry to Dal gate where i experienced my first shikara ride on this serene lake.I had witnessed the "2012 Srinagar Cyclothon" on television in Mumbai whose route was the Dal lake boulevard and initially mistook the area to be Worli sea-face in Mumbai. On personally visiting Dal lake boulevard was surprised at the similarities to Mumbai's sea-face promenades ,hence the comparison to my home city of Mumbai. I had participated in the "2011 Mumbai Cyclothon"."Nehru Park" was a small artificial islet in the middle of Dal lake which had a garden and a hotel besides being a tourist hot-spot for Kashmiri style water-skiing.There were numerous travel shops near Nehru Park jetty, all shut due to the curfew/Bandh. Two tea-stalls were open and for the first time taster "Kashmir Khawa tea" at the "Abdullah tea-stall", something unique to Kashmir akin to the Kashmir bread.It was a long and lonely walk along the boulevard stretch of Dal lake only a few vehicles and still fewer pedestrians.At approx 1130 hrs reached the "Lalit Grand Palace hotel"which had the police golf course next to its property.After a brief visit inside the golf course locale trudged my way towards Botanical gardens, en-route passing the "Centaur lake view hotel"situated on the banks of the Dal lake.Further down the boulevard road was the "Royal Springs golf course" and finally at approx 1145 hrs after making a detour from the main road into the Zabarwan foothills reached the Botanical gardens.There was a small open-air cafeteria where a group of Mumbai tourists were having snacks. Ordered some pakoda's and tea also conversing with the Maharashtrian tourists. Strangely, besides Kashmiri language, the next most commonly heard language in Srinagar was Marathi,an indication of the large number of group tours arranged from the state of Maharashtra.The tourists were a small private family from Mumbai and they regretted that the "Kashmir Bandh" had effected their tour to Gulmarg as the traffic on that part of the city was blocked due to disturbances and hence they had visited the gardens.I had thanked my luck and decision in deciding to visit Gulmarg on the first few days of the "Kashmir Bandh/Curfew" and now realize the reasons for a local Kashmiri warning me against travelling to Gulmarg.Entrance to the Botanical gardens was Rs 10, the garden devoid of any flowers, just shrubs as it was the winter season, the dry season for gardens.There was an artificial lake inside the garden, the same used for boating, a few tourists inside the garden. The famous "Indira Gandhi Memorial tulip garden" , the largest tulip garden in Asia was a few minutes walk from Botanical garden.The garden was closed as there were no tulips in bloom, the tulip bulbs just planted and awaiting bloom in April.Visited the flower nursery situated opposite the tulip garden, the gardener explaining the method of tulip cultivation.A summer visit is essential for tourists interested in viewing the gardens of Kashmir when the flowers and plants are in full bloom.It was a long exhausting trek up the Zabarwan hill towards "Chasme Shahi", the smallest of the three famous Moghul Gardens of Srinagar.At approx 1230 hrs reached a large "B.S.F check-post" and after the normal routine checks made my way uphill coming across the gates of "Raj Bhavan". Further uphill were the beautiful and expensive "J&K Govt" tourist huts, self-contained one bedroom and three bedroom bungalows with prices ranging from Rs 3500 to Rs 6500/day, the ultimate in billionaire style living. A little uphill from these cottages was the entrance to the "Chashme Shahi", a large tourist crowd at this location.A fast-food shop was open and for the first time got the taste of normal cafe type snacks. Ordered a "Cold Coffee Ice-cream(Rs 40)" relishing the same after a walk of almost 10 Kms, also hoping that it wouldn't worsen my chronic coughing.Entering the garden was surprised to find it filled with lots of tourists,mostly Indians and a few whom i had met the previous day at Gulmarg.Some of them were staying in the boathouse in which the memorable anti-terrorism film "Mission Kashmir" was filmed , the film Industry adding extra glamour to this winter and summer Paradise of India.Since most of the city was closed for vehicle traffic seems that most packaged tour companies headed for the gardens and Dal lake.The Chasme Shahi garden is built around a natural spring and all tourists took turns in tasting the spring water as well as photographing themselves at the spring.A beautiful view of the Dal lake was visible from this small garden. A young mixed couple, a white man named Mohammed from Sweden and his beautiful Iraqi wife Sodah were attracted by my sheep cap. A photograph of me along with Mohammed was taken by Sodah making me feel like a celebrity or a curiosity ! This was also the first time that i came across a white man with a burqa clad woman , a real odd couple adding glamour to Srinagar in a unique way of racial harmony and integration.At 1330 hrs after a brief tour of this small garden continued my ascent towards my last and ultimate tour site, "Pari Mahal". Pari Mahal(Abode of the Fairies) is a seven storied terraced garden located at the top of the Zabarwan Mountain range, the highest elevated Mughal garden in Srinagar.I was absolutely famished and tired trekking almost 10 Kms from "Diamond guesthouse" to Pari Mahal, the cold weather being the only advantage that made this walk less strenuous.This garden was established in 1650 by Prince Dara.Shikoh, the son of Mughal Emperor Shah.Jehan and built on the ruins of an Ancient Buddhist monastery.There were a few Indian tourists and some locals performing Namaaz on one of the terraced gardens.Quenched my thirst from a tap that supplied water from a natural spring, drinking like a horse.Surveyed the gardens and as usual a army sentry post was on the top of the garden. A large group of tourists from Mumbai arrived and it was nice hearing Marathi language , the next common language after Kashmiri in Srinagar!Proves that most tourists are from the large city's, mostly , the state of Maharashtra. The view of entire Srinagar and Dal lake with the melting snow caps at the peak of the Zabarwan mountains was as picturesque as in the Kashmir postcards.Interacted with a few tourists from "Sarthak Tours", a total group of 42 members.A few of us picked up a conversation with the armed sentry Mr D.C.Yadav and got to understand the tough and dangerous lives of these soldiers that guard our Indian frontier and make life peaceful for us Indians. The soldier Mr D.C.Yadav posed for a photograph for us tourists.Departed from Pari Mahal at approx 1530 hrs, the downhill descent from the mountain being less strenuous.On arriving at the base of the mountain and onto the main Dal lake boulevard road boarded a rickshaw and requested to be driven to a hotel for lunch.Advantages of the "Srinagar Bandh"was the absence of normal vehicle traffic, a pleasant ride on a clear road to "Shamyana hotel", one of the few posh hotels open in the tourist vicinity of Dal lake promenade.Thanked the rickshaw driver after paying him Rs 50 and entered the posh "Shamyana hotel". Ordered a mutton Biryani,packaging half of the dish as it was beyond my stomach storing capacity!Another disadvantage of "solo backpacking travel" is eating out at posh hotels as all dishes are meant for two persons, large amount of food at a even larger expense compared to street food stalls.I never like wasting good expensive food and always have the habit of packaging excess food, either consuming the same later or handing the same to some beggar.After lunch walked my way back to "Diamond guesthouse" , the roads deserted with a few young men playing cricket on the empty road.Decided to rest and just watch television on reaching the guesthouse.I didn't want to risk exploring Srinagar's nightlife, normal on all my city tours due to the "Srinagar Bandh", besides, just venturing out onto the roads for a walk at night could be life threatening due to the civil unrest in the city. .Relaxed in my room while a group of young men checked into the guest-house.These men were not tourists but employees of a company having a contact in Bandipore, unable to proceed to that city due to the Bandh. Chacha Abdul Rehman asked me if i required dinner, vegetarian or non vegetarian.Since i had a late lunch decided to try his food culinary skills the next day.I offered him the mutton biryani which he refused and so i stored it in my room for consuming it as breakfast the next morning, "Baba Nonya Malaysian style" breakfast ! Surfed the television channels the entire evening, B.B.C and Al-Jazeera being the only foreign news channels.I had skipped dinner as the late Biryani lunch compensated for both, lunch and dinner, besides, i didn't want to venture into the street at night in search of a fruit stall.Sadly, sleep eluded me although i had walked almost 10 to 15 Kms the entire day, waking up early before "Muezzins prayer call".
Srinagar - Day 4 (Thursday 7-3-2013):-After a hot steaming bath watched t.v as usual , the entire house-hold asleep, myself being the only early morning riser. Breakfast was "Baba Nonya style" with yesterdays biryani and omelet/Kashmiri bread.In Malaysia, the average breakfast is akin to having a lunch or dinner for the average Indian , complete with fish/meat/vegetables and parathas, hence i have named any heavy breakfast as "Baba Nonya style" breakfast after my Malaysian tour.Thanks to the extreme freezing cold, the mutton biryani sealed in polythene was as fresh as instant food , my stomach filled for an entire days sightseeing agenda.Today Chacha Abdul.Rehman would prepare vegetable thali for dinner and he informed me that the "Srinagar Bandh" was still enforced and traffic to most localities in the city restricted barring the famous Dal lake vicinity.The entire locality was shut and never in my life had i visited a city where all major commercial establishments were shut for days, bizarre and scary.As there was no place to visit decided to explore Dal lake locality, the only tourist area that was safe and visited by tourists.On entering Dal lake boulevard was not pestered by the Shikara rowers as i was now a recognizable tourist, a common face in the crowd of few tourists visiting the area.A shikara owner approached me for a tour of entire Dal lake costing Rs 1000 to which i refused, finally agreeing for a 3 hour boat ride costing Rs 500. At 1030 hrs boarded the Shikara "Arif" with Mr Abdul.Hamid being my guide and oarsman, the entire shikara to myself.A local houseboat owner also boarded our Shikara for transit to his boathouse. At approx 1045hrs we reached a cluster of boathouses double-banked to each other , akin to a row of cottages on land.The boat owner invited me to visit his boathouses and i obliged.His employee, a young man Mr Faouk.wani showed me different sizes and types of boathouses reminding me of shipboard accommodation minus the noise and vibrations of the ships engine-room.Some of the boathouses had simple single -room type accommodation while others had dormitory type accommodation, these being the cheaper rental boathouses.He showed me a plush boathouse with expensive carpeting and Old world decor fit for a billionaire or wealthy honey-moon couples.After a brief examination of a few boathouses thanked Farouk and made my way to the shikara for the onward tour of Dal lake by boat.From "Chota Dal Lake" we paddled onto "Golden Lake", the poshest boat house address on Dal lake.The row of boathouses on "Golden Lake" resembled luxury at its ultimate floating in a beautiful placid lake akin to a swimming pool.Most Hindi film shootings have been filmed on the "Golden lake" and the rentals for some of these boat houses ran into thousands of rupees per day, definitely not for a backpacker tourist.Spotted Mr Tariq.Wangnoo on another Shikara with his recent guest house arrivals, giving them a tour of the lake.From the "Golden Lake" we then made our way into the open waters of the Dal lake, myself surprised at the network of canals within this large natural lake ,akin to Venice.There are approx 1200 houseboats permanently based on the Dal lake akin to buildings or cottages on land, the ownership of these houseboats being passed on to every forthcoming generation akin to family heirlooms, a priceless treasure and prestige to their owners.Tragically, the militancy in the valley and now recent curfew Bandhs has effected the livelihood of many of these house-boat owners and hope the situations gets to normal.There are a few boat hawkers who paddle along the Dal lake to sell their wares to tourists and i was approached by a canoe purchasing the ultimate Shikara cruise beverage, a can of Kingfisher beer.Thanks to non-imposition of the "Srinagar Bandh" on Dal lake , the few tourists like me were able to purchase products sold on the boats.A flower seller on a shikara approached me , excellent fragrance but flowers were definitely not on a solo tourists purchase list. At approx 1135 hrs reached "Nehru Park", a small islet on Dal lake converted to a garden and tourist recreation center.Alighted the shikara at Nehru park which had a entrance fee of Rs 10.An indigenous form of "water skiing" was being conducted for tourists at Nehru Park jetty, a flat board used as water ski's instead of the normal ski's.Here also most tourists were from Mumbai including the water skiing tourists.After a short stay on "Nehru Park" boarded the shikara and paddled away onwards towards the open clear lake. I had walked this entire shoreline yesterday along Dal Lake boulevard and now it was altogether a totally different feeling of transgressing this huge lake on a small shikara.This open large part of water front devoid of house- boats was called "Badda Dalji Lake"by the locals. There was a small islet called "Char Chinar" because four chinar trees stood at four corners of this small landmark island , also clearly visible from dal lake boulevard.At approx 1215 hrs reached "Kabtarkhanna", a small estate belonging to the former Maharajah of Kashmir, Mr Karan.Singh.There are houses and small cultivated vegetable farms on the Dal lake, akin to small islands, a real jig-saw puzzle and reasons for this lake being World famous.The Dal lake is a floating city and even the "Kashmir Bandh" did not effect this small water city, life as normal as sunrise and sunset.From Kabutarkhanna we made our way back through a different route, myself totally confused and would have definitely lost my way in these maze of canals, as unique as the canals of Venice.We passed by the boathouse in which the movie "Mission Kashmir"was filmed, a small ordinary boathouse compared to the majestic house-boat palaces on Golden lake.We finally reached "Tok Bazaar", which was a village on the lake where vegetables were cultivated, akin to a normal farm on land, a "Ripleys believe it or not". Next, our shikara wound its way into "Meena Bazaar",a grand shopping center in the midst of the lake, absolutely unique.Alighted at a carpet shop and after much haggling purchased an ordinary carpet as memories of Dal lake and its luxurious and unique plush house-boats.Also purchased a packet of dry fruits in another dry fruits shop for i didn't want to undergo a forced food diet control due to the Bandh.The memorable shikara ride finally terminated at "Ghat 1" at approx 1400 hrs, myself absolutely hungry and happy for having undertaken this excellent shikara cruise.Made my way back to "Diamond guesthouse", the route as familiar as a Mumbai street.After a brief rest decided to buy some medicine for my chronic cough from the chemist shop near Dal lake boulevard, the only shops open in that locality.As i headed out of the guesthouse met two of the paying-guests who along with others had booked a "S.U.V" for touring the gardens and visiting Shankaracharya temple situated on a hill on Dal lake boulevard.Mr Tariq.Wangnoo invited me to join them but as i had already trekked to these gardens decided to just accompany them to the Shankaracharya temple. It was pleasant travelling by a vehicle up the steep hill to a height of approx 1000 feet above Dal lake.Security at the temple gates was very strict, the strictest i had come across as a tourist, with mobiles and camera's not allowed. It was a steep tiring climb from the gate up a flight of stairs akin to walking up a steep hill, myself drained off energy.I did not enter the temple precincts but stood outside on the stairs admiring the beautiful view of Dal lake from this vantage point.We finally drove down the hill and i alighted the car at the base on Dal boulevard while the rest proceeded onwards towards the Mughal gardens. Walked my way back towards the guesthouse entering the chemist shop "Dhar Brothers" situated near the junction of Dal lock gate.Requested the chemist to give me some cough syrup and he gave me a bottle of "Pil-Linctus"syrup.Trudged my way back to the guesthouse surprised at my own energy levels despite a chronic cough and lack of sleep since my departure from Mumbai on Friday(1-3-2013).Dinner was delicious Kashmiri vegetarian thali prepared by Chacha Abdul.Rehman, excellent, one of the best simple vegetarian dishes that i had eaten in a long time being a total hard-core non-vegetarian.I was surprised that a Muslim family cooked such delicious vegetarian food as akin to Christians, the average Muslim is a non-vegetarian, specializing in Non-Vegetarian culinary food. Its a practical fact that various regions and communities in India have their own regional culinary delights and hence the best vegetarian food in India is best eaten in Marwari or Gujarathi hotels. Chacha Abdul.Rehman had proven that the best vegetarian food can also be cooked by a local Kashmiri, although i personally found his charges of Rs 200 a bit expensive.Traveling to and from Srinagar was a major problem in March due to landslides on the mountain highways and hence a convoy system of entry and exit for vehicles was put into effect.Alternate days were for incoming vehicle traffic from Jammu while the other days was for outgoing traffic from Srinagar.I had decided to depart from Srinagar on Saturday(9-3-2013) , the day vehicles from Srinagar were allowed to travel to Jammu, informing Chacha Abdul.Rehman of my plans.After a delicious dinner collected my hot water bag and drank a teaspoon of my cough medicine hoping that the freezing cold and chronic cough would not deter me from a good nights sleep.The cough medicine worked wonders and i had a relatively peaceful nights sleep after many days.As usual woke up before the Muezzin's prayer call and after a steaming hot water bathe drank a dose of the cough syrup and browsed through the t.v channels.
Srinagar-Day 5 (Friday 8-3-2013):-Breakfast was late as usual and the curfew bandh at its worst, traffic in most areas at a standstill. Left the guesthouse at approx 0930 hrs deciding to take a different route to Dal lake boulevard, crossing the Babar Sethu bridge on the main road just outside "Diamond guesthouse".Crossing the overbridge led to a golf course on the right-side that seemed abandoned.My normal route to Dal Lake was always past "21st C.R.P.F Battalion Headquarters" at Metro hotel and then a right turn into the road leading to Dal lake. A few young boys were playing cricket in the golf-course and initially i presumed this area to be a small forest.I observed that cricket was the most popular sport in Srinagar with men and young boys playing "Road Cricket" on the empty streets. A small garden named "Chinar Bagh" ran parallel to the golf course, the entire locality deserted, just a few people on the streets and the garden.Walking straight along the bridge road reached the main town center of Dal Gate road.Today being Friday, a religious day for Muslims, the "Srinagar Bandh" was enforced in all localities with even the chemist shops shut.Never before in my life had i lived for 5 days in a city with all its shops and major establishments shut, akin to living in a War zone as depicted on T.v and movies. The Shikara oarsmen were embarrassed to ask me for Shikara rides since i was now a familiar "Local tourist" in Srinagar, the rare solo tourist.Photographed the stray dogs around Dal lake, once a major cause of controversy as they were poisoned in mass numbers to decrease their population.Observed lots of stray dogs which had thick fur and seemed healthy compared to the average mongrel seen on the streets of Mumbai.Strangely i didn't see a single stray cat or a cat colony throughout my stay, very bizarre. Seems the mongrel dogs must have chased the cats into alleys or remote street corners. Spent the morning just observing dal lake and the city that lived on the lake. Strangely ,saw a vegetable seller on a boat selling vegetables to a man on shore proving that the Dal Lake market economy also helped locals on land. I inquired the vegetable prices with the boatman and they seemed moderate given the "Srinagar Curfew" situation and the boat transportation labour costs, akin to a ship carting goods from one port to another.Prices of some common commodities sold on the canoe were 1) onions =Rs 30/Kilo. 2) Tomatoes =Rs 30/Kilo.Glancing at the snow peaks surrounding Dal lake i was surprised to observe the rapid melting of the ice caps in just 5 days indicating that Spring and Summer were approaching rapidly.Spotted a young lady alight from a car and distribute "Yellow Rice" akin to pulao to anyone who asked for the same, something i observed on a previous occasion.Initially i thought that this was food for the poor but was surprised to observe well dressed men approaching this lady for the rice, taking it in their hand and consuming the same.On inquiry with a local i was told that this yellow rice was religious Muslim offerings in Srinagar ,akin to "Prasad"given in Hindu temples.Saw a few Indian tourists along dal lake boulevard, the safest and only place to visit in Srinagar. I decided to back to the guesthouse and rest the entire day, giving my weary legs some respite.The road back to "Diamond guesthouse" was totally deserted barring some kids and men playing cricket on the road. Only a single tiny roadside shop was open selling tea and eggs, this shop open round the clock during the Bandh.There was not a single fruit-seller in sight and i realized that i would have to undergo forced dieting, skipping lunch and finally having only dinner, thankful that Chacha Abdul.Rehman served excellent meals, although a bit expensive, his chicken curry costing Rs 300.Since i myself personally do the fish , meat and vegetable marketing in Mumbai i am very aware of the prices of commodities.On reaching the guesthouse relaxed watching T.v, thankful that there was some entertainment in the city by way of television. today i decided to witness the last sunset on the Dal lake, never ever venturing into the city after dark, curfew and the Bandh being the reasons.At approx 1600hrs left my guestroom and headed down my daily route towards Dal lake, a familiar face to "21st C.R.P.F Battalion" soldiers as well as local Kashmiri's in the locality.As i strolled along the now very familiar Dal lake boulevard came across a few group of Indian tourists, families traveling in a group. A large group of tourists from Pune had just arrived at the jetty and were boarding the Shikara's for a nights stay, the typical "Kashmir Holiday packaged Tour" itinerary. Walked upto "Nehru Park" Shikara jetty and sat in a small artificial wooden park jetty protruding into Dal lake, an excellent view of the lake from this vantage point.Saw a man collecting weed from the lakes bottom into his small canoe.Hundreds of tonnes of weed are removed from the Dal lake each year. This weed is utilized as fertilizers by farmers.Watched the Sun gradually set over the mountain skyline, the house-boat lights gradually illuminating.Finally at approx 1930 hrs i decided to head back home to the guesthouse.It was dark along the boulevard, the street lightning dim,I was carrying my small rechargeable torch which proved its worth in dark conditions.Observed a large handicraft shop open on Dal street boulevard, the only large tourist shop open in the entire vicinity.Entered the shop and browsed through the handicrafts and curio's , a bit dejected that couldn't visit the large number of shops and hotels in this tourist locality due to the "Srinagar Bandh". A few street hawkers were also peddling their wares on the footpath and portable carts outside these posh shops and hotels,doing brisk business with tourists, the only shopping alternative in a entirely shut city.It was a long lonely and scary walk in the dimly lit streetlight back to "Diamond guesthouse".There were few pedestrians on the road and on reaching the by-lane of "diamond guesthouse" met a local Kashmiri man residing in the same locality. We both walked towards our respective residences along the lonely lane with residences and hotels in the area.He told me that usually there would be a minimum of 200 to 300 tourists in this locality at this time of the year rather than the two of us walking along a lonely path. This shows the amount of tourism losses caused to the local economy due to the"Kashmir Bandh" as Kashmir is totally dependent on tourists, most of them from the various other states of India.Dinner at "Diamond guesthouse" was an excellent "chicken curry/chappatis/ rice" , myself gobbling the dinner akin to a man not having eaten for days.I thanked Chacha Abdul.Rehman.Wngnoo and his son Tariq for the excellent stay, akin to living in a private family residence rather than a common guesthouse.Read their guestbook about the opinion of other previous paying guest tourists and also entered down my opinion of the stay at their guesthouse. I was to leave the guesthouse early next morning and hence would not meet them, the entire household asleep.Packed my luggage, much heavier than when i left Mumbai, the carpet adding to the excess baggage.The cough syrup had done wonders to my throat and i had a decent nights sleep.It was freezing cold in the room as usual despite myself wearing double clothing, a hot water bottle and two blankets!
Departure Srinagar,Arrival Jammu - Day 6 (Saturday 9-3-2013):-Woke up early as usual and after a steaming hot water bathe made my way quietly out of the room.It was around 0600 hrs, the entire house-hold asleep and hence didn't want to cause a disturbance.It was a lonely walk down the lane onto the main road, my torch showing the street deserted, just a few army personnel on the street.I walked towards the main road intersection and was lucky to get a rickshaw.it was a short ride to the "Tourism Centre of Srinagar", the terminus for taxis and buses.On arrival at the tourism centre was mobbed , a taxi driver picking my luggage and putting it into his "Tata Innova van", the rates being Rs 600/ person.It was a long wait at the taxi stand, the driver coaxing passengers to travel to Jammu in his car, very strong competition between the taxi drivers for very few tourist and local travellers.The driver finally managed maximum capacity of 7 passengers and at approx 0720 hrs we finally began our journey to Jammu. . Breakfast was at a restaurant where i ate Kheema/Paratha , a typical local Kashmiri restaurant.After breakfast the car began its onward journey and all co-passengers got to know each other.Discussed the intricate workings of stock market trading with co-passenger Mr Shah, a young "I.T Professional" who dabbled in "Day Trading"and burnt his fingers.Another passenger Mr Michael.Burboz a Mumbaikar from Virar conducted tours to kashmir through his tour company "Aaron tours and travels", the current "Kashmir Bandh"affecting his tour schedule. Among Kashmiri's the surnames Shah and Bhat are common amongst Muslim Kashmiri's and came across co-passenger Mr Bhatt , a Hindu Pandit Kashmiri.At approx 0830 hrs we stopped at a taxi stand which had large dry fruits shops that were open.Purchased some dry fruit packets, my luggage weight increasing, a handicap for a solo-backpacking tour. It was a warm sunny day as the car made its way over the mountains, the road being a one-way traffic from Srinagar to Jammu and yet encountered traffic jams.Aswe approached Jammu the abrupt change in weather was evident, myself sweating in the winter jacket.Finally at approx 1530 hrs we reached B.C road ,the main Jammu bus stop, absolutely crowded and congested.The entire road journey was approx 8 hours.On alighting from the taxi i immediately approached the first tourist office "Jayanti Travels" for booking the overnight ticket to Shimla.I was told that there were no direct buses to Shimla from Jammu and the only alternative was to travel to Chandigarh and then board a bus to Shimla.Since Chandigarh was on my planned tour ,train ticket booked in advance in Mumbai decided to visit the nearest hill station.On inquiry was told that there was an overnight bus to Manali and hence booked a ticket to Manali costing Rs 800, the bus boarding time being 2230 hrs.I left my luggage at "Jayanti Travels" office and decided to explore a bit of this congested locality of Jammu. The weather was warm, akin to Mumbai or much hotter.Explored the congested bus station locality of Jammu, surfing for an hour at "Cyberlink" cafe.After a dinner at a Dhabba of"Fry Fish/Egg pakoda" boarded the "Manali bus " at approx 2245 hrs.